Vintage luxury can feel like a secret language—but it doesn’t have to. These are the 5 key bags to know, explained in a way that’s fast, fun, and actually helpful. If you’re new to handbags - start here! And if you’re in the industry - use it as a crisp refresher. Wherever you are in your fashion journey, this is your seat at the table.
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The Fendi Baguette
A classic East-West-shaped shoulder bag with a flap-enclosure featuring the “FF” logo. You’ll see everything from basic brown suede variations, to sequin-embellished variations.
Launch: Fendi Fall/Winter 1997 Collection
Designer: Silvia Venturini Fendi
Inspiration: French women carrying baguettes under their arms (seriously)
Fun Fact: The bag was heavily popularized by Sex and the City’s “Carrie Bradshaw” wearing multiple variations of the bag.
The Dior Saddle
A shoulder bag in a completely distinctive shape, featuring round edges, and hardware initial letters on the shoulder strap, and in the centre of the bag. Similar to the Baguette, styles vary from basic solid colours, to logo-mania and daring prints.
Launch Year: 1999, for Dior’s Spring/Summer 2000 Runway
Designer: John Galliano
Inspiration: The equestrian world, and the shape of a saddle.
Fun Fact: Allegedly, not confirmed, the Saddle Bag is also inspired by a sensual photo of a woman wearing a horse’s saddle on her back, titled “Saddle I” shot by Helmut Newton. I’ll let you look that one up yourself.
The Louis Vuitton Papillon
A cylindrical shoulder bag featuring a dual strap, zip enclosure, and in certain variations - a smaller, mini pochette of the same shape to be used as a charm or interior organizer.
Launch Year: 1966
Designer: Henri Racamier, husband of Louis Vuitton’s great-granddaughter
Inspiration: The shape of a butterfly - the cylindrical body of the bag resembling the butterfly, and the dual handles resembling its wings.
Fun Fact: Originally launched as the Papillon size 30, the bag came with a matching mini pochette - although its intention was for interior organization, some would call this the OG bag charm!
The Papillon was discontinued in 2018, and currently - only the “Papillion Trunk” - a souped-up modern version - can be purchased new.
The Prada Vela Nylon Backpack
A minimal-styled backpack that was way ahead of its time - it featured a body made of nylon, a flap enclosure, and of course - the triangle Prada logo.
Launch Year: 1984
Designer: Miuccia Prada
Inspiration: Miuccia was “bored” of luxury at the time - it was all leather handbags. She wanted a divisive contrast to the other “bourgeois” styles available, and so she decided on nylon.
Fun Fact: This was Miuccia’s first bag design for the house after stepping into her leading role. Using nylon was a bold and risky choice that could have gone one of two ways - but of course, the Vela went towards popularity and over 40 years later, it’s still just as in demand as it was when it launched.
Originally this bag was designed to be sleek and minimal, but shortly after - Miuccia launched the “Rucksack” (or, B2811 as its often referred to) featuring the more utilitarian-style we’re used to seeing today - pockets, hardware and all.
The Gucci Jackie
Originally, a hobo-style slouchy shoulder bag in the shape of a half-moon, featuring a lock enclosure in the shape of a piston. While the essential defining elements of the bag remain (overall shape, lock enclosure), we now most commonly know the Jackie to be a bit more structured in its body.
Launch Year: 1961 (launched as the “Constance”), 1964 (launched as the “Jackie”), 2020 (launched as the “Jackie 1961”)
Designer: It was a Gucci house collective - no one designer is credited for the design of the OG Jackie, however, variations and re-launches are credited to Tom Ford (1999), Frida Giannini (2009), and Alessandro Michele (2020)
Inspiration: The house wanted to create a sleek, minimal hobo-style bag that was appropriate for travel, as this was the “Jet Set” era, when air travel was becoming more and more accessible
Fun Fact: Yes - the bag’s name change to “Jackie” was because of how Jackie Kennedy Onassis was able to popularize the bag so quickly.
In 1999, Tom Ford changed the once rounded piston-lock enclsoure into a hard-edged, geometrical version. It stayed that way until 2009 when Frida Giannini relaunched the bag, with its original rounded piston lock enclosure.
If you loved this guide, you’ll love what’s coming next. I write about vintage luxury in a way that feels fun, approachable, and never pretentious. Stick around, ask questions, and make yourself at home — you’ve always got a seat at this table.
XO Bags For Breakfast by Shay Prasad
Disclaimer:
This article is based on publicly available research, archival materials, and my own analysis. I do my best to ensure accuracy, however, this is not a scholarly publication — just a deeply researched love letter to designer fashion.
Image Note:
All images in this piece are used for educational and historical commentary. Credits belong to the original creators and rights holders. If you own any of the imagery featured and would like an update or removal, please contact me and I’ll address it immediately.